Home | Handbook for
Legionaries | Becoming a
Soldier of Rome | Contact Us | Calendar of Events | Members Page | Newsletter | Legio XI Photos
Handbook for Legionaries: Galea
(helmet)
|
There was a wide variety of helmets in use in the mid-first century AD,
nowadays known by H. Russell Robinson's classifications (see his Armour
of Imperial Rome for the fullest details). The choice of style is
up to you, and does NOT depend on whether you plan to wear lorica segmentata
or mail armor (hamata).
The quality of your helmet must be very good. Roman helmets were
forged in one piece complete with the neckguards: reproductions
my have welds if they are not visible on the outside. All the
appropriate ridges and fittings must be present. Generally, steel
is used instead of iron, and either red or yellow brass is fine (the
zinc content of Roman brass or orichalcum varied). Rivets are
generally copper, and may be domed or flat-headed. |
Of the Imperial-Gallic
helmets, type G is the most popular with reenactors, but types A
through I
are all acceptable. Type I is brass, type A can be iron or brass,
while
the rest apparently were all iron. All have embossed steps and
ridges on
the back of the skull, neckguard, and cheekpieces, and the distinctive
"eyebrows" on the front. The brow reinforce is a thick iron
strip, or brass on brass helmets--this may have a tab in the center
which
projects through a slot in the bowl to prevent movement (though it
should not
poke you in the forehead!).
All Imperial-Gallic
helmets except type A have applied brass features: edging; stamped
decorative
bosses; "reeded" browbands; crest
support holders and hooks or rings; chinstrap rings (1 under the
neckguard, 1
inside each cheekpiece); and sometimes carrying handles. Types
E-I have
earguards of brass, while type D's are
iron, and A
& C have none at all. Applied brasswork is often tinned or
silvered. Most of these fittings are riveted on with copper
rivets,
though an iron brow reinforce may be secured with iron rivets at either
end.
Gallic type A by Joe Piela, Lonely Mountain Forge.
The occipital ridges are more rounded than later types, and the brow
reinforce is quite thick and heavy. The cheekpieces have studs on
the outside rather than interior rings, for the chinstrap. There
are no crest attachments, following the iron example from |
Imperial Gallic type C by Scott Martin of Illusion Armoring. The
original had no earguards, the brass edging being carried around the
ear opening as shown. That and the narrow eyebrows suggest a date
in the early first century AD. |
A fabulous Imperial Gallid D helmet by Joe Piela, owned by Todd
Kofchur. I think he's out-done himself this time. There is
also a view from above,
and a close-up of the
front showing the wire inlay on the brow reinforce. The
bosses above the cheekpieces are silver, and the earguards are steel. |
Two
Gallic type G helmets by the late Michael Luznicky. Brass
browband, edging, and bosses were done "in-house". Their
neckguards are about 2-3/4" wide at the center, and they weigh about 4
pounds each. Note that Gallic G is very over-used by reenactors
today, as only one example has been found. |
Imperial Gallic type G helmet by Joe Piela of Lonely Mountain Forge.
The bowl, with the neckguard, is authentically raised from a single
piece of steel. |
There are photos of
the original Imperial-Gallic type G from
http://www.romanhideout.com/Armamentarium/H_Imp_Gall_G.asp
Imperial-Gallic type H helmet by Peter Fuller of Medieval Reproductions.
The original is missing all its fittings except for a large flat rivet
in the middle of the neckguard, where we have placed a stamped
boss. Another fine replica (By Scott Martin of Illusion Armoring)
can be seen on the Roman Hideout site, http://www.romanhideout.com/Armamentarium/H_Imp_Gall_H.asp
|
||
First is a Deepeeka Gallic type I ( |
||
Deepeeka
Gallic I, Acquincum version, with crest by Owen Hutchins. This
helmet has a rather fancy crest knob (far right) rather than the usual
Gallic style crest attachments. |
|
Imperial-Gallic type E is very similar to type H (eyebrow shape and
neckguard width) except that the neckguard is flat rather than sloped.
Type F has a flat narrow neckguard like type G, but with narrow
two-ridge eyebrows. The cheekpieces are more tapered in shape. |
Italic type B is iron, very clean and simple. The neckguard is
quite narrow with only a single step, slightly sloped. |
|
Italic type C by Dean
Cunningham. The originals of this type are of rough
construction, with visible hammer and chisel marks, and Dean is proud
to have captured that feeling! The earguards are simply the edges
of the ear cut-outs flanged outwards. The crest support holder
and hooks are soldered in place. |
|
|
Italic type D by Joe Piela of Lonely Mountain Forge.
Excellent work, with all the appropriate engraving on the applied brass
temples. All of the brass decorations and the crest support
holder are soldered in place. Note that the brow reinforce is
brass and rather thin, and the front edge has a number of small nicks
evenly spaced, possibly to help secure an edging which is now
missing? The brow reinforce rivets (brass) are rather tall and
ornate, and since there are no crest hooks at front and back (though
these are often added to reproductions), it is possible that these
rivets served as tie-down points for a transverse crest. |
|
|
Helmet from |
|
The Roman Hideout also
has photos of Imperial-Italic type D (note that originally the iron
surface
would have been bright steel, not dark), http://www.romanhideout.com/Armamentarium/H_Imp_Ita_D.asp
|
Coolus (types C-I) and Montefortino (types C-F)
helmets are brass and fairly plain, except for some ridges or raise
panels on the cheekpieces. They are globular or hemispherical in shape,
not closely fitted to the head like the Imperial types--some were spun
on a lathe rather than hammered to shaped.
The brow reinforce, not present on some Montefortino types, is either
flat and thick or thin with a turned-down edge. There is usually
a crest knob, made in one piece with the skull on a Montefortino, but
soldered or riveted onto a Coolus. There may be feather tubes at
the temples. Chinstrap rings are identical to Imperial helmets,
although earlier examples have studs outside the cheekpieces
instead. There are no earguards, bosses, edging, or reeded
browbands (although Coolus H has filed decoration to resemble a
browband, below). Brass helmets may be entirely tinned or
silvered.
Right, Coolus E made from spun dome by
Matthew Amt. (Photo copyright Jane Walker.) |
The Coolus types C and
E seem to have been by far the most common helmets of the early and
mid-first
century AD. In fact, they may be considered essentially the same
type,
since their bowls and neckguards are all in the same range of size and
shape. It is only the shape of the cheekpieces which
distinguishes them,
and most helmets are found without their cheekpieces. According
to
Robinson's classification, Coolus C has no crest knob, following the
two
complete examples he shows, but bowls with crest knobs have been found
associated with (unattached) type C cheekpieces, so the distinction is
becoming
blurred.
|
||
|
|
|
Coolus G helmet by Stallari Armory (no longer in business). This
follows the Burlafingen example rather than the more popular
Drusenheim, the main difference being the shape of the neckguard (which
is just under 4 inches wide at
center). Crest knob by John Novicki. Total weight 5-1/2
pounds. |
||
Coolus H by Matthew Amt, made from a spun dome.
Flat neckguard very similar to Coolus G, but has filed lines across the
front brim which mimic the brass browbands on Gallic helmets. The
crest support holder is an Italic slotted disc style, and the brow
reinforce has an L-shaped cross section. The cheekpieces are
"type 24" from Carnuntum. (Photos copyright Jane Walker.) |
Coolus E from Berkhamstead, in the |
At far left (35 K.) is a lovely Gallic H by Stallari, owned by Legio
III Gallica. Right is Greg Fabic with the Coolus G he made from a
spun brass bowl.
Center is an "iron Coolus C" made by Matthew Amt from a civil defense helmet--very
cheap! Simply trim the brim to make the neckguard, add
cheekpieces and a brow reinforce, and replace the lining. I went
the extra step of soldering small discs into the holes left by the
suspension rivets to make them less visible. Even so, this type
is based only on one lump of rust which Robinson calls Coolus C, so its
existence is dubious. Legio XX uses this helmet only to loan to
soldiers who would otherwise have none. |
Montefortino helmets made from spun brass bowls.
The left-hand one is at type A by Stallari, dating to the 4th or 3rd
century BC (and therefore too early for our usual Imperial
impression). The crest knob was cast by lost-wax technique and is
soldered on. The brim may be a little too wide around the sides
and front. The right-hand helmet is a type C based on the
Buggenum helmet, made by Matthew Amt. The crest knob was from an
old porch light, and is brazed on to look like it is one piece with the
bowl. This helmet would be perfect for a Caesarian impression,
but would be rather outdated by the reign of Claudius. Both of
these helmets have studs on the cheekpieces rather than rings, and the
chinstraps are narrow strips each with a slit in the end for buttoning
over the stud. (Note--objects in helmet are closer than they
appear...) |
Fittings
and Details
Decorative bosses are usually stamped out
of thin brass (.010"), and a number of designs are known.
(Consult
the Commander.) Some examples are silver with red enameled
centers.
"Reeded" browbands were apparently cast, but modern reproductions are
often stamped. Earguards, whether brass or iron, should at least
appear
to be made in one piece, even if welded. Coolus-type crest knobs
may be
turned or cast, while Imperial crest holders are made of sheet
brass.
Brass hooks or rings for securing the crest are also present on most
Imperial-style helmets, as well as on a few Coolus helmets (often
regarded as
later types or modifications). (See the Crests page.)
Most Imperial helmets
have brass edging on the cheekpieces and neckguard, which can be made
from
1/8" or 3/16" tube. Anneal well and bend to fit, re-heating if
necessary to avoid bad puckers. Then slit the tube open around
the inside
with a Dremel tool and fit it into place, and hammer carefully to
flatten
it. Brass tabs c.1/4" wide may be riveted on to secure the edging
if
needed--2 on each cheekpiece and 2 or 3 on the neckguard. The
edging
might also be made from brass strip c. 3/8" wide, instead of tube.
Examples of brass
carrying handles seem to date to the second half of the first century
AD.
They are secured by 2 brass split pins, rather like cotter pins.
Chinstrap rings are c.1/2" in diameter, each secured with a brass strip
folded double and riveted in place. There is one under the center
of the neckguard, and one inside each cheekpiece, near the
bottom. The chinstrap thongs start at the neckguard ring (as
shown at left), cross under the throat, and are passed through the
cheekpiece rings to be tied under the chin. |
Coolus and
Montefortino helmets, up to type C, and Imperial-Gallic type A, have
projecting
studs outside the cheekpieces instead of rings. Normal thongs can
be
looped around these and tied under the chin, or wider straps can be
used, with
slits to "button" over the studs.
Detail of the cheekpiece hinge. The hinge plate was more often
rectangular (and often rather irregular) instead of ovoid. Note
the small brass tabs riveted in place to secure the cheekpiece
edging. Hammer and chisel marks are also visible! |
Helmet linings were apparently usually glued in place (with hide glue),
but little is known beyond that. The only known reference to
helmet padding is best translated as a "wad of rags"! Shown here
is a simple linen cap which can be padded with cotton batting,
horsehair, tow, scraps, layers of wool, etc. It can be made
adjustable with a drawstring. Thick felt can also be used.
An alternative is a folded or rolled strip around the brim, and a
folded square or rectangle at the top. The lining can be sewn to
a leather band which is then glued into place, so that the lining can
be removed for washing or repairs just by cutting the stitching. |
For photos of original and reconstructed helmets, see the
Contents page of the Armamentarium website, http://museums.ncl.ac.uk/archive/arma/contents/conts1.htm
There are
several
custom armorers who make good helmets listed on the Suppliers page.
Some
of those made by Joe Piela of Lonely Mountain Forge can be seen on his
site.
The only usable
"off the shelf" helmets at the moment are made by Deepeeka in
The following
Deepeeka helmets have also been improved and
should be available soon. They are all fully acceptable for Legio
XI
use. Be sure to specify the "N" in the catalog number to avoid
the older versions (which may still be stocked by some vendors).
#6306N Imperial Gallic A
#6307N Imperial Gallic C
#6052N Imperial Gallic G (Over-used by reenactors!)
#6053N Imperial Gallic H
#6059BN Imperial Gallic I (
#6055BN Coolus C
#6051BN Coolus E
#6308BN Coolus G
#6057BN Imperial Italic C
#6054N Imperial Italic D
New helmets
which have been added to the Deepeeka line, all
approved for Legio XI use, include Coolus D, Imperial Gallic F, and
Imperial
Italic B.
#6060B
"Acquinson" (actually Imp. Gal. I,
Aquincum) (brass) -- The shape of the crest knob is not exactly like
the
original, but it can either be altered, replaced, or simply left as
is.
The slot in the knob is often too wide, but that really can't be helped
much. Overall excellent. (I
don't know if
this helmet is going to be upgraded or discontinued.)
#6050
Montefortino B (not to be confused with 6063, below!)
was much too large, but has recently been improved and now looks very
good. At least one other Montefortino is under development.
#6303B
Auxiliary Infantry B is excellent for auxiliary infantry.
The
Deepeeka
"Special Command" helmets are simply their Gallic G and H with
different crests, but unfortunately the crests are not good. See
the page
on Helmet Crests
for
better ideas.
Also, #3801
Trooper, #3815 Imp.
Italic Centurian, #3816 Imp. Italic Guard,
and the
entire "Royal" line are all junk, and should be avoided at all
costs. Similarly, none of the helmets from Windlass
Steelcrafts/Museum
Replicas are usable, even with modification. (See page on Things to Avoid.)
Please use caution
when buying even the improved Deepeeka helmets from ebay vendors or
other
places. If the description does not specify an improved Deepeeka
product,
check with the centurio first! Many companies are making bad
imitations
of these pieces.
Legio XI/11th Legion
Clavdia Pia Fidelis